Friday, July 30, 2021

Nails ~ Cult Nails Clairvoyant over red (and how to layer different nail polishes)

I wore this around the middle of November of last year, when the weather started to get cold and it seemed like the holidays were really happening. Spoiler alert, they didn't.

In the sun

When I do layering experiments like these, which is what my blog was based on from its true beginnings, I usually get shrinkage. I think it's because different brands/finishes of nail polishes dry at different rates. So what I usually do is either take pictures right away, before it all dries, or here is a technique I have learned throughout my years of layering:

1) I make sure to have at least 1 hour set aside to do this, as it will take a long time for all the layers to dry. If you're going to try it, consider using the restroom, and doing the dishes prior to this. I usually do it on a weekend right before bed, and try to sleep like a vampire in a coffin. The first step is to push back cuticles (optional).
2) I apply Base Coat and let it dry...

In the sun

3) Then, I apply the two layers of base color as close as I can to the cuticle, and let it dry for a bit. My base color here was a really loud orangey red, and as you can see from the pictures, this looks nothing like it. I usually have a drink here at this step to allow for the base color to dry. It is important to make sure that at least the first coat wraps around the tip or edge of the nail. Try to avoid using jellies, as they are notorious for shrinking.
4) I polish with all the other layers, and touch the surface of the first nail that I started with in between each layer, to make sure that it is not too dentable. I usually start with my left pinky, so for instance, I applied the first coat of Doomfire here, and when I get to my right thumb (last finger), I gently sweep the surface with my right index over the first nail (left pinky) and if it flows then I start to apply the other coat right away. If I feel a bit of resistance, where my fingerprint wants to drag the nail polish, then I wait a minute or two, and then feel it again, until it is ready.
     4.1) Most flakies and glitter polishes do this, they "dry" right away, holos too. I typed the word dry in quotes, because it is not really dry but the layer is not too tacky to the touch.
     4.2) Doing thin coats helps, and working in an area where there is breeze or it is cold (Winter is great) definitely speeds up the process. Waving your hands as in putting out a fire also helps. My family makes fun of me because they think I'm fanning myself for no reason.
     4.3) Sparse microglitters and shimmers are the most challenging, consider sponging those.
As opposed to the base color, here it is important that these layers do not wrap around the tip/edge of the nail, because otherwise it will make them look chunky. Trust me...

In the sun

5) I apply a non-fast-drying top coat. Yes, you read that right, that is why allocating an hour for this is ideal. This will prevent mayor shrinkage (especially if your nails are curved like mine). Carefully, drag the brush on top of that last coat of nail polish. I use a lot of top coat so that the brush barely touches the surface, instead the liquid (the top coat) is touching it. Sometimes, glitter pieces will transfer to the top coat brush, but that's ok, as long as the layers don't move too much.
6) Wait. Just keep waiting until everything dries. If it is the end of the day, relax and read a book or perform tasks that do not require you to use your hands. I try to wait about half an hour before applying moisturizer creams or hand lotions. I do not use cuticle oil, but it is also an option...

In the shade

7) Next day, I check for shrinkage.
     7.1) If there was movement around the cuticle, I grab a clean-up brush (I used Elf Essentials Concealer Brush) dipped in acetone (Pure 100% Acetone works best for dried polish), and clean up the uneven color so that it makes a nice gap.
     7.2) If there was significant movement at the edge where I can see the tip of my nail, I simply use a nail file to file that 'naked' part of the nail, and even things out. Alternatively, I may dab a bit of the base color that I used and paint over it without disturbing the rest of the nail too much.
     7.3) If nothing shrunk, hooray!
8) Once everything is really dry for sure, I apply a fast-drying top coat, I use Seche Vite. I make sure to cover the tips/edge of the nail. Wait 5 minutes.


In the sun

This works well especially for darker colors and loud reds such as this one, which are too obvious and unforgiving when they pool into the cuticle. If I take pics for the blog on the same day, and then they happen to shrink the next couple of days I don't really mind it sometimes, and I just leave it. Because, in real life it is not really so noticeable, but the pictures are so zoomed in sometimes that errors are amplified. This is what I think led to the era of filters, because certain viewers scrutinize everything. That being said, I have never used filters here in the blog. I think I have played around with the preset ones on Instagram. My favorite is Ludwig. Anyhow, I digress. I wish you all a good weekend. Thanks for reading my little old blog, and have fun with your nails...experiment!

In the sun

Layering Order:
Dior Base Coat Abricot
2 coats Colors by Llarowe Nice Bridge! Indie Shop San Francisco 2017
1 coat Baroness X Doomfire
1 coat Cult Nails Clairvoyant
1 coat Baroness X Doomfire
1 coat Cult Nails Clairvoyant
Dior Gel Coat Top Coat
Seche Vite Top Coat (next day)

Where to buy in the US:
Both of these indie nail polishes have been discontinued.

Fine Print: If you find something wrong with this post, please let me know, broken links, typos, different opinions, etc. I am not a professional makeup artist, nor a nail tech, nor an aesthetician, so please take everything with a grain of salt. Actually, take anything found on the internet with a grain of salt <3

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